STEPPING FORWARD: THE EVOLUTION OF MEN’S FOOTWEAR
THE EVOLUTION OF
MEN'S FOOTWEAR
Words by by Michael Phelps
February 7, 2025
Men’s fashion has always been a mirror reflecting the times, and nowhere is this more evident than footwear. Shoes are more than mere accessories—they are bold statements of identity, power, and artistry. From Saint Laurent's edgy Cuban heels to Rick Owens' avant-garde Kiss boots, the evolution of men’s footwear has blurred the lines between utility and high fashion.
Today, a new wave of designers is rewriting the rules, inspired by historical silhouettes yet pushing boundaries with daring modernity. Brands like Bode and Maison Martin Margiela have reimagined the past, blending nostalgia with innovation to create footwear that is as expressive as it is functional. In this feature, we explore the designers and trends redefining men’s footwear, offering a glimpse into a world where every step tells a story.
So, as you lace up, zip on, or slide into your favorite pair, we ask: what do your shoes say about you?
Saint Laurent
A true trendsetter in men’s footwear, Saint Laurent has always maintained a “rock n roll” edge for men. While they are always known for their classic “Cuban heel,” over the last few fashion cycles, they have introduced a taller heel with an “almond” pointed toe. This is a great silhouette you’d find on rock legend and fashion icon Lenny Kravitz.
Bode
An emerging American brand, Bode spent time referencing footwear from a different era in some of their recent collections. A men’s flat shoe with a silk bow at the toe shows the evolution of men’s footwear today by simply referencing its past.
Men’s Calf/OTK Boots
Over the last three fashion cycles, men have been given a gift from the fashion gods: calf- and over-the-knee boots. Very reminiscent of the past, over-the-knee boots can be tricky. Sometimes, depending on the body type and build of the person, choosing the right one can be challenging. Most brands use “high-quality” leathers that, once broken in, feel like butter. Rick Owens' “Kiss” boot has been all the craze, referencing the glam rock, faceprint-wearing, tall-boot-clad band from the '70s.
A Leader in Men’s Footwear
A leader in men’s footwear comes from John Galliano and his vision at the unisex powerhouse Maison Martin Margiela. Using references to ballet shoes for both men and women, and softening the approach to the traditional “Mary Jane” silhouette, a new persona was born. Galliano is ending his time at the fashion brand this season, but his presence will forever be felt, from head to “Tabi” toe…